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Deep red with a slight purple hue on release. The wine has a rich mix of dark chocolate infused with coffee bean and black liquorice, then scents of tar, aniseed, raw (pure) soy and black olive on the nose. The palate is expansive, and yet balanced and finessed. An amalgam of dark berried flavors and textural sensations. The 100% new oak is completely absorbed, meshed with ripe tannins, completing a palate of impressive length and youthfulness.

Parcels of fruit for this wine were identified in the vineyard by the winemakers. Daily fruit inspection led to the fruit being harvested at optimum flavor ripeness. The fruit was harvested at night and quickly transported to the winery. The fruit was destemmed to 6T open fermenters for fermentation. A Shiraz specific yeast was selected to ferment the wine and fermentation was carried out at a maximum of 28°C. The fermenter was manually pumped over twice daily in the first half of fermentation to give the winemakers control of color, flavor and tannin extraction. Pump over regimes were adjusted toward the end of fermentation to suit the tannin and flavor extraction of the wine. The cap was completely broken up on each pump over. The wine remained in fermenters for 6-8 days (dependent on parcel) before being pressed, inoculated with malolactic bacteria and filled to American oak (100% new barrels). The wine was racked post malolactic fermentation and returned to the same barrels. The wine was topped every month and after six months racked and returned to the same barrels again. Prior to bottling the parcels were emptied from oak and blended. Minimal fining and filtration was carried out prior to bottling.

Review:

"Judging by the obscenely heavy packaging, this wine is going to be big—and big it is. 2018 was a wonderful vintage for Barossa Shiraz, and many producers were able to coax (with ease) abundant red fruits and balanced, ductile tannins from the grapes this season; this is no exception. The 2018 Ron Thorn Shiraz is heavily weighted down by oak at this stage, but the fruit shows the requisite muscle to fend off the oak in the long term. A very good wine, but it's definitely not ready yet. - Erin Larkin"

- Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (September 2022), 94+ pts

This is a 6 pack with 2 bottles each from vintages from 2013, 2015, and 2016. 

***Tenimenti Angelini Val di Suga Vigna Spuntali Brunello di Montalcino 2016:

The 2016 Vigna Spuntali Brunello di Montalcino is the most brooding of the lineup from Val di Suga and is sourced from the southwest of the region on sandy soils. There are aromatics of black raspberry, licorice, menthol, sage, cinnamon, and iron-rich earth. Its Mediterranean influence is felt on the palate with ripe black cherry, dried herbs, and sun-baked earth. This is the fullest bodied and most savory of the Val di Suga lineup, with more roundness and grip. Its structure will benefit from cellaring for several years and will be great drinking over the next 20 years or more. 2026-2040.

-Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points

***Tenimenti Angelini Val di Suga Vigna Spuntali Brunello di Montalcino 2015:

The 2015 Vigna Spuntali Brunello di Montalcino is more introverted on first opening, with notes of black plum, licorice, dried Mediterranean herb, and sun-baked earth. On the palate, it offers a tart dried fruit character, with a building tannin structure that finishes with tomato leaf, and bitter herbs. The most rustic and burly of the wines in the lineup of the 2015 Val di Suga vintage, it will benefit from allowing some time in cellar to see how this matures and its tarriness develops. Drink 2026-2036

-Jeb Dunnuck 94 Points

***Tenimenti Angelini Val di Suga Vigna Spuntali Brunello di Montalcino 2013:

Plenty of spices and fresh herbs on the nose, such as dried rosemary and nutmeg, to match the underlying dried redcurrants and cranberries. Full-bodied with plenty of concentration, but still shows a very sturdy, tannin backbone and punchy acidity, to drive this through to a long finish. Drink in 2021.

-James Suckling 94 Points

Anne Delaroche Cotes du Rhone Rose Bejot is made from 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah.

Very charming pale rosé color. The wine displays lots of fresh fruit aromas such as strawberry and watermelon. The palate is focused and very well balanced with again some strawberry and ripe red fruit notes. The finish is quite pleasing and long with a little spiciness and freshness to it.

Chateau Brule Secaille Grande Reserve Cotes de Bourg Rouge  is made from 55% Merlot, 30% Cabernet sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec.

The color is deep dark ruby. limpid and brilliant. The nose is intense and complex with hints of blackberries, sweet spicies, noble plain chocolate and Vanilla. The palate is full bodied, very long with well integrated tannins. The finish is very fresh and luscious with toasted notes in the background.

Average age of the vines is 30 years.
Manual harvest from September 21th to October 7th 2015.
Upon arrival at the winery, only the best grapes were selected using a sorting table.
Skin contact maceration during 2 weeks in temperature controlled vats.
Aged 12 months in Oak barrels. (1/3 new oak, 1/3 1 year old and 1/3 two year old barrels). They use 60% French Oak and 40% American Oak.

Served with red meat (beef filet, sirloin),  pork tenderloin, roasted duck breast with honey&orange sauce, roasted lamb with thyme, poultry and fine cheese.

Review:

  "A purple-colored, young wine dominated by Merlot, this is rich, structured and full of blackberries. With a good balance between the fruit and the tannins already in place, it shows excellent potential. Drink this already delicious but still firm wine from 2022. - ROGER VOSS"
- Wine Enthusiast (December 2018, Best of Year 2018 Issue), 90 pts

Convento Oreja Ribera del Duero Crianza is made from 100 percent Tempranillo.

Bright cherry color. On the nose you will find plenty of fruit aromas, well balanced as well as some reminiscences of spices that are appreciable. The oak presence gives elegant hints of black chocolate and vanilla. On the palate, the wine is very smooth and well balanced with the right amount of acidity. Fresh, long lasting and elegant.

The wine went through malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged 12 Months in French Oak barrels.  Before bottling, the wine was slightly filtered.

Review:

A bouquet of Luxardo cherry, blackberry preserves and lavender wafts from the glass. Surprisingly juicy on entry, this wine has flavors of pomegranate, ripe cherry, orange zest, dried thyme, dark chocolate and violet. Opulent tannins build in volume and then recede into a finish that is filled with bright fruit notes. — Mike DeSimone

- Wine Enthusiast (June/July 2023), 94 pts

Convento Oreja Ribera del Duero Roble is made from 100% Tempranillo

Deep black plum color with violet tones. Ripe fruit on the nose, mostly blackberries and raspberries, intermingled with hints of spice and leather. On the palate, it is warm, fresh and pleasant with a long finish.

Age of the vines: betwxeen 6 and 16 years old.

Vineyards' location: Comarca de Peñafiel.

Vinification is made in large 20,000-liter stainless steel tanks (200 hectoliters) with automated temperature control.
Fermentation lasted 5 days at 22°C temperature.
Total time for maceration lasted 9 days. 
Malolactic Fermentación was completed during the month of November.
Wine was aged in French Oak barrels for a minimum of 4 months.

Review:

"Thoroughly Ribera del Duero in its power and austerity, this wine’s floral rose scents shade into blackness, lasting cleanly within a structure that’s both open and intense. There’s a hint of greenness from its time in American and French oak barrels, an edge that will tame grilled meats."

- Wine & Spirits (June 2022), 91 pts

Delas Hermitage Les Grandes Vignes Ligne de Crete is made from Syrah. 

The nose discloses aromas of spice and leather intertwined with deep berry aromas (blackberry, redcurrant) and heady floral notes, liquorice and incense. Its richness, complexity and elegance are by no means a contradiction. The finest granite soils of the Hermitage hillside are to thank for this wine's incredible minerality and finesse. The wine is rich and dense on entry to the palate, where it shows an elegant, broad and flavorsome character. The ripe, smooth and well-integrated tannins contribute to the wine's powerful yet harmonious structure. The palate reveals the same aromas as those found on the nose with nuances of blueberry, raspberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Ligne de Crête is characterized by its exceptional structure, harmony and balance.

This remarkably smooth and elegant wine makes the perfect partner for a pigeon pie, beef tartare ravioli or a roast fillet of deviled duckling with cranberries. It also makes an excellent choice for woodcock, hare "à la Royale" or even a roast rack of lamb in a herb crust.

Review:

Whiffs of espresso, ore and charred meat mingle into thunderous flavors of crème de cassis and roasted plums in this wine. A single-site expression of Les Grandes Vignes from a ripe yet fresh vintage, it's a showstopping Syrah marked with a creamy texture and ripe tannins. Hermitage is not known for youthful pleasures but this rare bottling embraces the hedonism of adolescence along with its potential to gain power and complexity far beyond 2050. Anna Lee C. Iijima

-Wine Enthusiast 97 Points

Inky ruby color. Expansive, smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits, licorice, smoky bacon, mocha, violet and licorice on the highly perfumed nose. Appealingly sweet, mineral-accented cassis, boysenberry, fruitcake, floral pastille and vanilla flavors show superb depth and become spicier with aeration. Shows superb detail and mineral lift on the youthfully tannic, extremely persistent and incisive finish, which features resonating floral and exotic spice notes.

-Vinous 97 Points

Dutton-Goldfield Rued Vineyard Chardonnay is made from 100 percent Chardonnay. 

The nose leads with tangerine, apricot, and kiwi fruit, accented by lemon oil, orange blossom, and hazelnut. In the mouth, the fruit/floral and bright/rich theme continues, with the lychee and Meyer lemon top notes joined by Asian pear and Gravenstein apple, framed with honeysuckle and gardenia.

The dual nature of the wine makes it pair well with both rich and light fare, like lobster roll, roasted pork, or sautéed sole.

Review:

From a clone once called the Chardonnay Musque selection, this wine is highly aromatic and fresh. Juicy tropical fruit and tangerine flavors remain crisp and brilliant, leading to a complex midpalate of Meyer lemon and pear. The finish is topped by lasting, lingering layers of hazelnut.

- Wine Enthusiast 94 Points

Landes Cuvee Prestige Lussac Saint Emilion is made from 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc

Color: deep dark ruby intense color
Aroma: racy and aromatic nose with aromas of ripe red fruit, floral notes, wood and spice with a touch of vanilla.
Taste: this wine has a good structure and some powerful aromas of raspberries, blackcurrant, vanilla and it is powerful with a complex finish. The oak is present but not dominant. The tannins are quite well integrated already.

Average age of the Vines: 60 years Yield : 50 hectoliters / hectare. Grape picking: harvest by machine. Vats: Stainless steel thermoregulated and computerized. Fermentation: 45 to 50 days with a final 35°C warm steeping. Winemaking: Malolactic fermentation in new oak barrel. Ageing: 16 months in new French Oak barrels from Allier and Limousin. Annual production: 10,000 bottles. (833 cases)

Review:

"This shows aromas of ripe blackcurrants and blackberries with walnuts, spices and cocoa. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and a bright, succulent character. Racy finish. Drink or hold."

- James Suckling (December 2022), 92 pts

Landes Grand Heritage Lussac Saint Emilion is made from 100 percent Merlot.

First vintage of this wine was 2010 to pay tribute to the founding father of Chateau des Landes - Paul Lassagne. He gave the family a great legacy of terroir, passion and know-how to craft this great cuvee produced from a selection of the finest grapes that are vinified and aged in 600 liter French oak foudres, just like it was done in the old days. The resulting wine is complex and aromatic offering bold aromas and flavors of dark berries, floral tones, spice, oak and vanilla. The palate is onctuous and powerful, well structured with ripe tannins. Well balanced and a complex finish. 

Average age of the Vines: 60 years Yield : 50 hectoliters / hectare. Grape picking: harvest by machine. Vats: Stainless steel thermoregulated and computerized. Fermentation: 45 to 50 days with a final 35°C warm steeping. Winemaking: Malolactic fermentation in new oak barrel. Ageing: 16 months in new French Oak barrels from Allier and Limousin. Annual production: 10,000 bottles. (833 cases)

Salmon hue with bright red tints. Fine and energetic bubbles. A ripe, complex and youthful bouquet of slightly tangy red fruit (redcurrants, blackcurrants), ripe citrus (blood orange) and roasted cocoa beans. After some time in the glass, the wine reveals sappier, floral and sweet notes with a saline, almost briny, core. The first impression of the wine is of a generosity, softness and concentration. One has the sensation of biting into juicy, ripe fruit and blood orange, it is a fabulous aromatic explosion with luscious and slightly tangy overtones. The concentrated and dense body takes over and reinforces the impression of substance, of concentrated liqueur on the mid-palate. The finish stretches out, perfectly-honed, gradually revealing umami notes thanks to the precise and crisp mineral freshness.

Reviews:

The 2015 Brut Vintage Rosé is generous and demonstrative, bursting with aromas of peach, orange and pear mingled with hints of red berries, fresh bread and ginger. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, it's rich and enveloping, its textural attack segueing into an ample, fleshy core that's girdled by bright acids and enlivened by a pillowy mousse. Long and expansive, it's more generous and gourmand than its racier 2014 predecessor, but just as good.

-Wine Advocate 94 Points

This shows lots of cotton candy and peach, together with strawberries and cream. But not overpowering. Some cranberry, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied with fine bubbles and a lively finish. Dosage 8g/L. Drink now or hold.

-James Suckling 94 Points

Manoir du Carra Beaujolais Cru Moulin a Vent Les Burdelines is made from 100 percent Gamay,

Cru Moulin-à-Vent is called the “King of Beaujolais” and is known to age the longest and be the most tannic.  Measuring 660 hectares (1,630 acres) in size, there are 280 examples of this AOC on the market.

The wine is produced in the lieu-dit “Les Burdelines”, which belongs to the 18 'climates' registered by the National Institute for Designations of Origin.

Intense color between garnet and deep ruby. Red fruit nose with floral, smoky and forest notes. The mouth is rich and well structured. In a few years the aromas will evolve towards more spice, musk and venison

Pago de Carraovejas Ribera Del Duero is made from 90% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot

The Pago de Carraovejas Ribera del Duero vintage marks a turning point in the history of the winery. From now on, the Crianza and Reserva are unified in this wine that focuses on the terroir and character rather than the time of aging. Its renewed label reflects the three key elements of this red: origin, soul and emotion. 

Pago de Carraovejas Ribera Del Duero is made with grapes grown in the Botijas River valley, and planted between 1988 and 2011. Our work over the last 30 years has been geared to handcrafted viniculture, that puts as much care as possible into the microclimate conditions and the details. We have placed particular attention on the maintenance of the soil by plant cover that already grows spontaneously. It allows us to develop the ecosystem of the valley, which we respect scrupulously, using organic fertilizer and sulfur as the sole basis of our viticulture.

Depending on which plot they come from and the time they enter the winery, the grapes may be deposited in cold chambers to prevent oxidation and preserve the aroma. We carry out a two-part selection: first on the vine, where we choose the bunches, and then on a belt in the winery, where we remove the grapes that do meet the necessary conditions. The grapes enter the winery and are transported with the assistance of gravity. The deposits are filled slowly and gently. Depending on the characteristics that we detected when tasting the grapes, we ferment them either in stainless steel deposits or French oak barrels. For years we have worked with our own yeast that has been isolated from the vines by our team. This work is also partly responsible for the Carraovejas character.

The wine was aged in barrels for around twelve months.

 Review:

This is among the most serious producers in Ribera del Duero, with sizeable production but utterly meticulous attention to detail. The 2020 release is a blend of 92% Tempranillo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Merlot. It reveals its Spanish origins with a heady bouquet of spicy, toasty oak, and yet the fruit is much more restrained and mineral, which is consistent with the track record of this wine, which turns stylistically ever more toward fine Bordeaux as it ages. Although it is very enjoyable already, this will become much more complex for those who can cellar it for at least 5 years, with 10 being even more advisable. Better two days after opening, which is telling.

-Tasting Panel 95 Points

Sei Solo Ribera del Duero Tempranillo is made from 100 percent Tempranillo. 

Named after Bach's six solos for violin, Sei Solo represents Javier Zaccagnini's vision of elegant, high-toned Ribera del Duero from the powerful, mineral soils of La Horra and the top vineyards of Barroso and Acos that are planted with old vines of 60 to 90 years old.

Displaying wonderful clarity of fruit and excellent transparency to the multi-layered flavors, there is no new oak influence on this at all, resulting in a wine that has nothing to hide behind. Deft tannins support a taut, mineral, dark fruited wine that, while tight knit and brooding is tremendously refined and vital and not at all tiring to drink. A Ribera built on elegance, refinement and nuance that promises great things for the future. A star is born.

Fermented in stainless steel tanks of small capacity, adapted to the size of every vineyard, allowing to do individual fermentation for every different plot.
Short and careful pumping over, never reaching high temperatures to respect the fruit and avoid over extraction of the tannins, gaining the full potential of elegance and finesse of the old vines. After alcoholic fermentation the wines are racked to two-year-old French barrels to undergo malolactic at low temperature ( less than 14 degrees C) . This process takes several months. When malolactic is finished, the wines are racked to 600 liter big barrels of French oak, which are not new to avoid a loss of balance and style of the wines. Aging in barrels for 20 months.

 Review:

- Wine Enthusiast (May 2024), 97 pts & Cellar Selection

Thorn Clarke William Randell Cabernet is made from 100 percent Cabernet

The William Randell range of wines were created in honor of the family ancestor - the esteemed pioneer William Richard Randell (1824 - 1911). The wines are sourced solely from grapes grown on the family estate vineyards. Wines in this range are only made in exceptional vintages.

The deep red color with purple hues of this wine draw you in. The nose is brimming with notes of fresh blackcurrant intertwined with complexing savory spice. The palate has an integrated French oak influence with notes of toasty cedar accompanied by further notes of briary fruits. A wine with great depth and drive.

 Review:

"Plums and beeswax meld in this succulent cabernet, selected from Thorn-Clarke’s Milton Park estate vineyard, 250 acres of vines in the Eden Valley hills between Angaston and Keyneton. The wine holds its herbal notes to a fine complexity at the edges of ripe, gentle tannins. The cool altitude of the vines produce black-currant flavors last and last. Subtle, dark-fruited and supple cabernet joy. - Joshua GREENE"

- Wine & Spirits Magazine (Spring 2024), 94 pts

Trus Ribera del Duero Crianza is made from 100 percent Tempranillo.

Trus - an acronym for T-tierra (soil), R-roble (oak), U-uva (grape), S-sol (sun) - aims to reflect the uniqueness of each vintage, the aging potential of the wine in the bottle over the years.

Trus takes its roots in Palacios Vinos de Finca, the estate that was founded in 1999, then purchased by Javier Palacios who decided to focus on producing wines that express the purity and typicity of the Ribera terroirs.

The estate vineyards are located in Piñel de abajo, Pesquera de Duero, Quintanilla de Arriba. The winery also partners with winegrowers in Moradillo, Roa, Nava, Peñaranda or Baños de Valdearados. The clay-limestone soils of the high-altitude vineyards define the intense and complex personality of the wines. That is why Trus wines can be defined as classic, because an avant-garde look is the one that is directed towards the soil, preserving a typicity that is marked from its deepest roots.

Trus Crianza reveals a clean and bright cherry color with Burgundian tones at the rim. The nose is very intense and complex, offering ripe black fruits and liquorice aromas, toasty and vanilla nuances, spices and balsamic notes. The wine is tasty and unctuous on the palate, a perfect harmony between acidity and alcohol. Fresh and friendly mouthfeel, the ripe and soft tannins provide structure and great length. Long finish, ripe fruit aftertaste with a smoky and spicy finish.

Review:

"A plush and fabulous expression of variety and provenance with well-integrated alcohol, tannin and acidity. Will continue for several years and mellow. Be warned – one glass will be quickly followed by the next."

- Decanter World Wine Awards 2021, 96 points - GOLD MEDAL

Review:

Solid and radiant in the glass it shows notes of pink grapefruit, flowering geraniums, pressed blueberries, plums and rosemary. There is more in the background in the brightness of the lemon, lime and bergamot notes. Full body, well-polymerized tannins that are decidedly vibrant and tense at the moment and an impressive long finish that will relax over time. Better from 2024.

-Raffaele Vecchione - WinesCritic.com 96 Points

Arzuaga Gran Arzuaga Ribera del Duero is made from 92% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Gran Arzuaga is a special cuvee coming from the selection of vineyards on the two banks of the Duero River. Tempranillo is planted in the Olivares de Duero area and Cabernet Sauvignon in La Planta estate that rich in limestone soils. Both areas bring richness and typical characters to the wine.

Tasting notes:
The wine has a bright cherry red color with violet rims. On the nose, it shows great aromatic complexity. In the first place, the primary aromas of red fruits such as blackberry predominate, herbaceous and floral touches that give way to tertiary aromas where balsamic and spicy aromas stand out. On the palate the wine is creamy and silky, with a fresh entry that quickly becomes meaty and unctuous as it goes through the mouth.

Perfect with Roast Lamb, Meat Stews, and even dark Chocolate.

Review:

Inky dark core with a purple hue. Smoked meat, dry spices, liquorice, dark plum, cassis and spicy new oak aromas. Very dense and concentrated palate, with balanced proportions between sweet fruit flavours, smoked and spicy notes, a fresh acidity, grainy tannin and a very long meaty finish. A big wine that still needs a few more years of ageing.

-Tasted 94 Points

Babylons Peak Paardeberg Shiraz is made from 100 percent Shiraz. 

Babylon's Peak winery, situated on the highest weathered granite slopes of the Paardeberg Mountain, is privately owned by the Basson family who has passed down the tradition, passion and art of winemaking over four generations. Predominantly low-yield dryland bushvines are selected to produce these excellent wines with distinctive character.

A classic Shiraz with dark fruit, violets and white pepper. An elegant wine with ripe tannins and a lingering aftertaste.

The grapes were harvested by hand. The grapes were destalked only, no crushing was done. Cold maceration was done before fermentation started in open fermenters. The grapes fermented between 24-26°C for 5-7 days, after which the wine was taken to barrels where it went through malolactic fermentation. After malolactic fermentation was completed, the wine spent 14 months in 225 litre French oak barrels until bottling.

Pairs with rich and creamy meat dishes eg. oxtail and venison.

Bernardins Beaumes de Venise Rouge Cru Cotes du Rhone is made from 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Grenache Blanc.

Bright ruby color with cherry tinges. Complex black fruit aromas on the nose enhanced by spicy notes. Rounded palate with good length.

The wine is drinking well right now and can be kept for another 10 years.

Situation
Spreads out over the south-east side of the Dentelles de Montmirail hills, in Beaumes de Venise in the southern part of the Rhone valley.

Terroir
 On a poor sandy, hungry and arid soil consisting of tender limestone and gritty zones of sandy mollasse.

In the vineyard
The vineyards and their terroir are the essence of our wines. This is where everything starts and where we focus our efforts throughout the year. You can’t make great wine without great grapes.

The viticulture is essentially done by hand. Five people work full-time in the vineyards. They are supplemented by seasonal employees who work during bunch thinning and the harvest in order to bring out the very best in our vines. Working by hand and the attention each vine gets are fundamental. Pruning, de-budding, trellising, leaf removal and picking are thus carried out by hand with the utmost care.

We prepare the soil by using good old-fashioned ploughing. Organic compost is made from grape marc (the discarded stalks and skins).

As a way of protecting the plants, we only use phytosanitary products when necessary and within strict guidelines by staggering the treatments appropriately, to minimise the amount of chemicals used. We prefer to use as much as possible manual and organic techniques . Leaving natural grass cover, removing buds and leaves from the vines, preserving biodiversity around the vineyard: olive, almond and cypress trees, wild rosemary and capers.

Winemaking
We make two red wines at the estate. Terroir wines shaped by the two classic Côtes du Rhône varieties: Grenache and Syrah. We don’t follow any winemaking recipe but are constantly searching for the perfect expression of terroir and each vintage’s particular characteristics. We don’t go for overripe grapes and over-extraction, as we think the wine has to stay refreshing and balanced.

Leaving the wine for 15 days in concrete vats, we try to gently extract the tannins and anthocyanins essential for the wine’s structure and colour. The wine doesn’t come into any contact with wood during ageing. This way the characteristics of our terroir can fully express

Serve with a meal especially red meat, game and cheese.

Review:

"Interesting blend, and it comes through on the nose - it's a fruity, floral style of Beaumes that's really appealing. Full-bodied, rounded, generous and fluid, with very fine tannins. This is a real success in 2021. Also contains 5% Mourvèdre and 4% Grenache Blanc. No destemming, aged 12 months in stainless steel."

- Decanter (September 2022), 93 pts