Gessinger Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett - 2018

Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese is a late harvest wine produced from grapes picked around 7 days after regular harvest time. The wine is rich, intense, full flavored. Pear, honeysuckle, apple and great acidity that make it a balanced and elegant wine.

Timeless Notes:

Let's have a quick recall of German Riesling labeling. There are four main tiers of sweetness that I usually stick too. There are others, but I find these four to be the most enjoyable: The Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, & of course, the famed Trockenbeerenauslese.

Today, we are talking about a semi-sweet to sweet which is the Spatlese from the Gessinger family estate. It comes from a fully ripe grape and is the lightest of the late harvest Rieslings. These wines drink very young or within a few years of age. In this case, the wine is on the sweet side, and I have to admit I am not one that usually reaches for the sweeter wines. This one, however, is nearly impossible to put down after trying.

The majority of Rieslings worth mentioning are grown along the Mosel river. The bank of the Mosel is made up of different types of blue or red slate.  The soil type we are dealing with today is the best of the best, Devonian slate. This very porous slate combined with the clay soil give the wines grown in the region a fine mineral taste as well as excellent balance.

The Gessinger family moved from Italy to the Mosel region of Zelting in the 1500's. In 1680 their winery was founded and in 1820 they became one of the first family owned vineyards in the middle Mosel. In 1899, they joined an exclusive group of winery owners dedicated to the Mosel called, "The Bernkastel Ring". They have been members of this elite group for over 100 years. The Ring is composed of the finest producers in Germany which sell to connoisseurs all over the world. Because of the Ring's reputation, for years Gessinger's wines were only sold at their September auction. This made it impossible for anyone outside of the "click" to get a hold of these top Rieslings.

I spent a week in Bernkastel, a small hamlet in the middle Mosel, a true story book town. Each morning looking out over the town, I would almost expect to see medieval peasants totting their grapes down from the river banks. On my final day, I had a chance to catch up with the Gessinger family. We tasted their fabulous wines in a small underground tavern. Even with the smoke spilling out of the flu from the chimney, I was still able to smell the aroma of apricot, pear, and some granny apples rising from the glass. The wine is well balanced, rich, flavored and intense. It has good acidity to help balance out the late harvest grapes. Elegant and food friendly. 

This is a wine I would use to start a meal off and it works just as well to finish one up. It will drink well for the next few years... no rush in consuming this one.

With only 2000 cases produced total, this includes their Spatlese and Auslese, there is not much to go around!

Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is a big and rich wine with ripe peach and pear on the nose, honeyed, citrus and mineral aromas. Clean and pure, distinctive character. Very long finish

All vineyards are located in the middle Mosel town of Zelting. Weingut Gessinger joined the Bernkastel Ring in 1899 and for years their wines only appeared at their September auction. Gessinger is quite small, less than 2,000 cases and all his whites are 100% Riesling planted on Devon Slate (best soil type of the area).

Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is a big and rich wine with ripe peach and pear on the nose, honeyed, citrus and mineral aromas. Clean and pure, distinctive character. Very long finish

Review:

"Sun-kissed yellow cherry and mango notes are juxtaposed by struck flint, salt and slate in this spry yet powerfully fruity Riesling. The midpalate is sweet and spicy yet intensely mineral, reverberating through a long, stony finish. Drinks well already but likely to improve from 2021."
- Wine Enthusiast (April 2018), 91 pts - CELLAR SELECTION

Chavy-Chouet Meursault Les Casse Tetes is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.

A "casse tête" in French is a conundrum or puzzle and the name of this plot refers to the hardness of the soil and the challenge it was for our ancestors to plant vines on this pebbly limestone ground.
Surface Area : 1.5 acres (0.6 hectares)
Age of the vines: 45 years old
Planting density : 10,000 vines per hectares
Soil Type : Limestone
Tasting notes: Concentrated, powerful, and lively, Les Casse-Têtes is the very quintessence of the Meursault appellation. Its sophistication, structure, and assured elegance reflect the character of the soil.

The 2018 Meursault Les Casses-Têtes comes from vines on rocky soils, less decomposed than other climats, where Romaric Chavy explained it is crucial to pick at exactly the right time. This has an intense bouquet of crushed stone, orange peel and light oyster shell aromas. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry, delivering a fine bead of acidity and tangerine and light mango notes, and spicier than the Les Narvaux, with a little more cohesion on the persistent finish. This is superb.

 -Vinous 93 Points

Chavy-Chouet Meursault Les Vireuils is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.

The "Les Vireuils" parcel is located on the top of the hill above Meursault, right below the forest. 
It is slightly cooler parcel with a limestone soils with a higher presence of rocks. The wines coming from this parcel are always sharp with a vibrant acidity and a lot of freshness. 
Tasting notes: Concentrated, powerful, and lively, Les Vireuils has all the classic characteristics of the Meursault appellation. Its sophistication, structure, and assured elegance reflect the character of the soil.

Review:

The 2018 Meursault Les Vireuils comes from two parcels of vine on either side of the climat (15- and 50-year-old vines). One is a new parcel bought by Chavy (unbelievably, it was advertised on a website that Romaric Chavy happened to see; the transaction was done in a couple of weeks). It has a lovely nose of menthol-tinged citrus fruit that gains intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with well-judged acidity, vivid orange zest and citrus notes and a precise, mineral-driven finish. This is a superb Les Vireuils. 

-Vinous 92 Points

Chavy-Chouet Puligny Montrachet Permier Cru Les Champs Gain is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.

The wine is produced from 100% Chardonnay coming from the top of the hills of Puligny-Montrachet. The rocky soil of the steep slopes is rich in limestone. 
Champs-Gain is a fine and subtle wine with fresh and lively citrus notes. Over time, it delicately reveals notes of very ripe yellow fruits.

The vineyard measures 0.3 hectare with a plenting density of 10,000 vines per hectare.
100% Chardonnay of 30 years of age.
Ageing in oak barrels for 12 months (20% new).

Review:

"The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs-Gain 1er Cru has an intense, voluminous bouquet of yellow flowers, white peach and crushed stone aromas that feel very cohesive. The palate has a rounded texture on the entry. Slightly lower in acidity and quite plush for a Puligny, with a pure and quite persistent finish. Fine.- Neal Martin"

- Antonio Galloni's Vinous (2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations, January 2020), 91 pts